​Knit Fabric - Composition and Knitting Methods

23rd Sep 2021

Knit fabrics are created on a knitting machine. The yarns are interlocked at a 45 degree angle to create a structure of loops.

Knitting methods

The most common method is weft knitting, which uses a single yarn.

Warp knitting is a method in which more than one yarn is used. Warp knitting produces a very stable knits, like tricot.

Rib knits are fabrics that have alternating knit and purl stiches within the fabric. These fabrics have a lot of stretch.

Fabric Composition

Knits can be made of nearly anything: cotton, polyester, rayon, lurex, nylon, wool, and more. The content can be mixed from any of the above, or have added spandex in it.

Cotton

Cotton knits and cotton knit blends are great to sew with, although they can sometimes lack good recovery. Recovery refers to the ability of the fabric to return to its original shape after being stretched.

Pros:

  • Natural fiber
  • Wears well
  • Comfortable
  • Breathable
  • Easy to care for

Cons:

  • Often more rigid than other knits, which may not be optional for items that require a lot of drape
  • Lightweight versions can be very sheer and not appropriate for full dresses or unlimited tops
  • 100% cotton has minimal vertical stretch
  • Often lacks stretch recovery
Polyester

Polyester fibers add durability to a fabric. Good quality polyester fabric can be an excellent choice for some sewing projects.

Pros:

  • Wears well if cared or correctly and quality fabric is used
  • Lightweight versions are great for drapery garments
  • Polyester blends are durable

Cons:

  • Less breathable than natural fibers
  • Difficult to remove stains
  • Poor quality versions can peel quickly
Silk

Silk is a luxurious fiber, often with a sheen that gives it a distinctive look.

Pros:

  • Luxurious band feel
  • Strong and durable
  • Insulates the body
  • Comfortable to wear
  • Takes dye well, so colors are often very saturated

Cons:

  • Expensive
Rayon

Rayon is not exactly natural or synthetic, but somewhat in between. Modal is aa type of rayon.

Pros:

  • Soft hand feel
  • Durable
  • Cool to the touch and absorbent

Cons:

  • Shrinks a lot if washed in warm water or machine dried
Wool

Wool fibres are made of fleece of sheep or other domestic animals.

Pros:

  • Insulating
  • Breathable
  • Absorbent

Cons:

  • Caring instructions must be followed
  • Some varieties can be coarse or itchy
Nylon

Nylon is a synthetic fiber, often blended with other fibers to create durable fabrics with great recovery.

Pros:

  • Strong and durable
  • Great stretch
  • Good recovery
  • Keeps its shape over time
  • Easy to care for

Cons:

  • Can not think of any

Reference List:

1) Clair, A. (2014) The Colette Guide To Sewing Knits. Professional Techniques For Beautiful Everyday Garments. 1st Ed.

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